MALULA, TANZANIA – I’m on my knees, surrounded by five Maasai warriors.
The tallest, Emmanuel, drills one stick into another to make fire. As one stick smolders, he brings out a wad of dried cow dung, believed to disinfect wounds. I bare my arm and steel myself for an ancient ritual usually done to turn young Maasai men into moran. Warriors.
Emmanuel finally lifts the smoldering stick, preparing to sear human…
