Only a few hundred metres from the dock in the small southern Egyptian town of Esna, the crew of the Adelaide deftly unfurl the ship’s scarlet-and-white-striped sails. As they puff up, catching the strong southerly winds and sending the boat gliding soundlessly upstream, I feel something inside me unwind and expand, too.
We are embarking on a journey to see some of Upper Egypt’s most remarkable sites via the waterway that made them all…
