There was no doubt who was in charge. Arriving deliberately late to our meeting in Jaja village on the ocean shore of the Rufiji delta in southern Tanzania, Dia Kiyonga toured the room, shaking hands with the visitors, her blue robe flowing. She was Jaja’s mangroves boss, after all. And mangroves are everywhere and everything here.
The creeks and mudbanks of the Rufiji delta are home to…

